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What’s the use of a fine house if you haven’t got a tolerable planet to put it on?

- Henry David Thoreau

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Travel

Oct 26, 2019

The Undeniable Beauty of Poland’s Gory Stolowe National Park

Visitors will find a rare-looking, 70 million year-old untouched land with rock formations and wildlife in this anomalous European landscape.

WRITTEN BY

Jonatar Evaristo

Despite being a fascinating town, Karłów isn’t really top of the must-see list for most people visiting Poland. Of course, it’s not easy to compete with charming cities such as Warsaw and Krakow, but Karłów is also a stunning and interesting destination.

And the most surprising place I’ve visited in Karłów was, undoubtedly, Gory Stolowe National Park, also known as “Table Mountains.” For hiking enthusiasts like myself, it’s a place you must visit again and again. Located in South-West Poland and sharing territory with the Czech Republic, its 63 square kilometer mountain range offers a plethora of unique activities for its visitors.

The park area is a huge patchwork of hiking trails with over 100 km of traced paths. The reserve’s highest point is Szczeliniec Wielki, reaching 919 meters; and, along with Mały Szczeliniec, which reaches 896 meters, they create a massive and wide landscape scenario, with numerous cracks and deep canyons.

The Devil’s Kitchen is justifiably famous as a path, although hard on the knees, it is a spectacular descent.

Hiking to the top takes around one hour for seasoned hikers and the trail is not too challenging. However, to reach the summit, you must conquer the 665 steps carved into stone in the late 18th century by Karlów’s mayor, Franz Pabel.

What really sets the park landscape apart — among stone mazes and groves, also impossible to ignore — are the rock formations shaped like animals and humans, sculpted by Nature thousands of years ago. You can find an “Elephant,” a “Monkey,” and a “Mammoth,” among many others.

Rock formation of Szczeliniec Wielki.

When you finally reach the summit of Szczeliniec Wielki, however, you will find yourself in a completely different world. At the top, there is the unique B&B “Na Szczelińcu”, completed in 1845 in Tyrolean style, where you can see all the Sudetes mountain range.

After taking in all the splendor of the West view of “Table Mountains” in the Czech side, the way back may be done in two different paths: either by going down the same trail or through “Piekiełku,” which, in English, means “Hell.” And hear this advice attentively: going back the same trail would be an unforgivable sin. This path is packed with atmospheric mazes made out of stonewalls and massive slabs covered with moss, and the views are just breathtaking!

Preservation of this marvellous natural area that we call Gory Stolowe National Park is paramount. Either by climbing up the highest spot of the Table Mountains or by exploring cosmopolitan Warsaw, visiting Poland is always an unforgettable experience.

Natural geologic processes shape “Małpi Łeb” or ‘The Monkey Head’

Cover Photo: The Highest peak of Szczeliniec is a rock formation called “Fotel Pradziada or “Great Grandfathers Armchair”, which can be reached by metal stairs

All photos provided by the author. 

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Travel

Oct 04, 2019

An Inside Look at Texas’s Budding Surf Paradise

The surfing taking place in Texas is obviously not the totally radical ocean surfing that you’ve seen on your Instagram feed, but inland surfing in man-made pools with machine powered waves.

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WRITTEN BY

Evan Quarnstrom

Texas has not historically been a sought-after destination for surfers. As a state that sits about equidistantly far from the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, waves are not exactly easy to come by

However, recently Texas has been getting put on the map for a new demographic of visitors from not just around the country, but the globe. It’s not the rodeos, barbecues, or country music that is drawing the new-found attention. It’s the surfing.

An empty left-hander goes unridden at BSR Cable Park in Waco, Texas.

Surfing’s arms race

Over the past half-decade there has been an intensified technology race to strike it rich by building the world’s latest and greatest artificial wave. Different types of technology to create the perfect, repeatable wave have been popping up all over the globe from Spain to Australia to California. In 2015, the GOAT of surfing Kelly Slater shocked the world with a perfect right hander built in California’s ocean-less Central Valley. Then, when everyone thought that Slater could not be topped, Hawaiian surfer Seth Moniz appeared on the internet doing a backflip-ish type aerial in a pool in Waco, Texas. After the dust had settled from Moniz’s backflip heard ’round the world, surfers were left asking themselves: Where the hell is Waco?

It appeared that Kelly Slater’s wave had met its match.

Waves run along a cement wall in sets of three, with a 180 degree beach for onlookers to enjoy the action.

When in Waco

As cool as it was that Kelly Slater’s pool was essentially in our backyard here in California, just a little road trip up the I-5, it’s not open to the masses.

Ever since its emergence into the public eye, the only people that have surfed Slater’s pool are pro surfers, friends of pro surfers, VIPs, or those who can shell out the thousands of dollars required to book a session. Average surfers like me with a thin wallet don’t stand a chance. However, when Waco’s pool was unveiled, it caught the attention of the masses, all the way from beginners to average joes to pros. Waco’s technology is built to create shorter, but more frequent waves — as opposed to Slater’s very long wave once every four to five-ish minutes.

In Waco, groups of people can surf the wave all at once, and for the price of $90+ tax you can be one of those lucky surfers for an hour. It’s not what I would describe as cheap, but definitely accessible for the non-aristocratic surfers looking to get barreled in freshwater.

When I was invited out to Dallas, Texas on a family trip with my girlfriend, I knew I couldn’t pass up on a chance to surf the pool in Waco just a two-hour drive to the south. I coordinated my trip with a friend who lives in Austin, and booked a one-hour session to give inland surfing in Texas a try for myself.

Asking the guys who had surfed the wave before for some advice, such as where to sit. There are markers on the wall that you can use to locate your takeoff spot.

Chlorine cutbacks

I had seen enough videos online to have a pretty good idea of what to expect at the pool, but seeing surfable waves breaking in swimming pools still hasn’t lost its novelty feel for me yet.

I strolled along the poolside with my surfboard bag hanging from my shoulder, my eyes glued on the waves peeling across the pool. I sat in a beach chair with my feet planted on the imported sand and studied the waves before I would get my one-hour window to surf. Finally, the clock struck 6pm and it was my turn to get in the water.

The pool lets in nine people at a time, forming three groups of three. The waves come out in three-wave sets, so each group gets a set and then gets back in line for their next turn.

Our group of nine featured what I would consider a bunch of average joe surfers. Most seemed to be visiting from California, while there also was a more novice surfer from New York and a homegrown Texan employee of the pool who was picking off the waves that people fell on.

We started off with the right, a wave that breaks from right to left if you are looking at it from the shore.

From behind the concrete wall a machine starts to make a muffled rumble, indicating that you need to get ready for what is to emerge from the depths. Suddenly, a large amount of water is displaced as you drop down below sea level in the pool. Out from under the wall a bump appears, seemingly small, but when acting upon the contour of the pool floor, a beautiful wave begins to break. Then another follows, and another, breaking about waist to chest high laterally down the pool.

There are nuanced, complicated, intriguing, and often ignorant avenues of discussion

I didn’t know what to expect on my first shot, but I took positioning advice from the Big Apple surfer and I stood up without a hitch. I might have gotten a little excited with the maneuvers that I was trying to perform off the bat, falling a few times here and there. The wave is predictable, but it has different phases of going from more sloping to steep and barreling. Knowing where to place and time your maneuvers is critical knowledge that I was doing my best to process on the fly.

Almost immediately, the first thing I noticed was the smiles and stoke permeating through all nine surfers in the pool. There was a palpable camaraderie between the surfers, which sadly enough was surprising for me, a surfer accustomed to the jam-packed, tension-filled lineups of California.

I suppose that when you don’t have to fight for waves, the true nature of surfing, and most surfers for that matter, emerges. You can focus on the fun and not hassling for waves or the grumpy, aggressive locals that unfortunately are an all-too-common stereotype in surfing.

Enjoying the good vibes in the pool, I had a great time trading off waves with strangers and surfing into the late evening hours of a scorching autumn day in Texas.

Of course, surfing the pool for the first time was more difficult than I imagined, but that was to be expected. I managed to do some satisfying turns, but many of my waves were learning experiences — getting used to a new wave takes time, let alone a freshwater wave that breaks along a cement wall.

Getting a feel for the wave.
My friend from college, Pat, cutting back on the right.
With the wind blowing onshore for the rights, only the lefts were barreling with the opposite, offshore wind. I never quite figured out how to time it and get barreled during my hour session. Here I am a split second too far in front of it. Next time I’ll figure it out.
A few backside turns while surfing the left.

Can pools coexist with the ocean?

My freshwater surfing experience in Waco was definitely a memorable day. Surfing 15-20 guaranteed, nicely shaped waves in an hour was well worth the $90 in my opinion.

If anything, it left me wanting more. Now that I have a little familiarity with the wave, I keep thinking about different approaches to take — how I would do a certain turn the next time, or where I would stall to get barreled.

In search of perfect waves, surfers around the globe now might have their sights set on Texas

There are mixed feelings about wave pools in the global surfing community, but the overall sentiment is largely positive. I am personally of the opinion that surfing in a pool will never replace surfing in the ocean, and while the average day in a pool is definitely better than the average day in the ocean, the best day in most pools will never rival the best day in the ocean. At least for now the accessible technology is still far from that point.

I do, however, believe that pool surfing will grow as a nice complement to ocean surfing. Those that aren’t so lucky to live on the coast or spooked by surging housing costs in California can still reach their dreams of surfing without immediate access to the ocean.

There are nuanced, complicated, intriguing, and often ignorant avenues of discussion that stem off the creation of wave pools that I must at least mention if writing an informed article on the topic. Those discussions include competitive surfing in pools, training in pools, the economic viability of developing and building surf parks, pool water quality, and the race to build the next best technology, but I won’t, and simply can’t, dive into those topics in this story because they could each be bible-length articles in their own right.

For me, the important takeaway was still that surfing perfect waves outside the ocean is no longer a dream, but a reality, and unsurprisingly, it’s just downright fun. There are millions of surfers around the world thinking the same thing as me, eager to jump in a pool themselves. For that reason, I don’t think this wave pool craze will end anytime soon.

It’s yet to be determined if the wave pool in Waco will withstand the test of time, but for the time-being, surfers will continue to be spotted at land-locked Texas airports, much to the confusion of airline staff and fellow passengers. It still sounds odd to say, and foreign to anyone who isn’t in the know, but instead of heading off to exotic lands like Hawaii, Costa Rica, or Fiji in search of perfect waves, surfers around the globe now might have their sights set on Texas for their next surf trip.

Photo credit: First photo is by Patrick Hamilton, the rest are by Madison Snively.

This article first appeared on the author’s website: www.evanquarnstrom.com.

 

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