This story originally featured in The Outdoor Journal print edition. Subscribe here.
Swirl three times, pour. Wait three breaths, turn the cup back over. In Dushanbe, Tajikistan I’m reading tea leaves stuck to a white cup, without much success. Gaunt and tired from climbing in Afghanistan, I have 7,000 miles of travel still ahead, and a baby due in a few weeks, so my mind is only on getting home to Boulder, Colorado.
Having lived there almost 20 years, it’s easier to reflect on it when I’m far away. Ironically, we have our own authentic Tajik teahouse, sent piece by piece from the City of Dushanbe as a gift. I’d be glad to be there right now.
Boulder sits elevated at 1600m where the Great Plains suddenly meet the soaring Rocky Mountains. If you arrive overland from the East, as I did, across a flat sea of grasses, it’s breathtaking. Once here, you find a stunning variety of outdoor activities accessible from a picture-perfect downtown where the sun shines nearly all the time and everybody’s healthy. But, an ominous curse whispers across 150 years. Arapahoe Chief Niwot warned the first settlers: “People seeing the beauty of this valley will want to stay, and their staying will be the undoing of the beauty.”
The Earth makes herself known here. Rock juts out of the hills and canyons around town: from glacially-polished granite, to sandstone, to a unique igneous, sedimentary, metamorphic link. Baseline Road lies on the 40th latitude, gold mining brought the first white settlers, and several national earth science research centers are housed here. Weather moves quickly. A sunny June afternoon can turn into hail and ankle-deep slush. Likewise, in January a Monday snow storm can become T-shirt weather by Thursday.
For visitors, as well as those who live here, it is a wonderland of outdoor adventure stocked with world-class dining and culture. 230 km of trails, 98,000 acres of open space, 60 urban parks, and 500km of bike ways and trails are set aside for 100,000 citizens and their guests. Rocky Mountain National Park, an hour away, is laced with trails, lakes and wildflowers, Denver lies only 40km away, and skiing is within 40 minutes’ drive. The 20 bike shops, 40 yoga studios, and 79,000 square foot Whole Foods hint at an obsession with fitness and well-being. Numerous professional athletes (and wannabes) make it their home, and her trails, cliffs, and roads are well-loved by many hands, feet and wheels.
The topographic playground and backdrop are beautiful, but they are matched by an impressive community and culture. Colorado University is a research powerhouse, there’s Buddhist Naropa University, massage, and herbal medicine schools. Vibrant creativity, a sparky startup community, and leading science research make for an inspirational population.
The wonders of Boulder are no secret however, and the press, enamored with superlatives, regularly place it in various Top-Ten type lists. Usually they extol the fitness, healthy lifestyle, outdoor opportunities, braininess, creativity, business verve, foodie-ness, etc. But there is, naturally, a backlash, and it is a favorite target of some post-modern negativity.
It is wryly called ‘The Bubble’ or ‘The People’s Republic of Boulder’, or more cynically, “25 square miles surrounded by reality.” The same preservationist and well-intended progressive policies that keep it so attractive have elevated the cost of living, changed demographics. You will see bumper stickers shouting to “keep Boulder weird!”
Chief Niwot must be smiling to himself.
Before you get too distracted by intriguing lectures, local craft beer, galleries or restaurants, however, plan out some of those outdoor activities you came for. Start a hike at Chautauqua Park and you can stroll leisurely up the Bluebell trail or southward on the 12km Mesa Trail to connect with dozens of others in the Open Space where moderate hikes are plentiful. Pound out a difficult ascent of Bear Peak and you’ll be rewarded with sensational views of the eastern plains, foothills, and snowy Indian Peaks. The trails at Mt. Sanitas and Flagstaff are favorites, lined with bouldering. If you’re lucky, you may see black bear, foxes, coyote or even a mountain lion off the trails.
As expected, climbing is nearly a cultural imperative. Locals enjoy an early-morning jaunt up the 450m First Flatiron before breakfast. Contact the Colorado Mountain Schoolfor help setting up instruction and equipment. If you are an experienced climber, head to Eldorado Canyon State Park whose sandstone walls are lined with thousands of routes and 50 years of history. Boulder Canyon is another popular destination, with thousands of its own granite sport routes. Neptune Mountaineering can outfit you, including guidebooks.
Bikes are everywhere… whether the rattle of a single mountain bike, a peloton of road bikers passing farms on the edge of town, or several hundred glowing, rolling costumes slowing traffic on the Thursday night downtown cruiser ride. There are even 100 automated bike rental stations around town. Visit University Bikes for your general needs. If you’re a connoisseur, there are specialty shops just for you.
Pearl Street is the heart of downtown and it beats from 6am coffee to 2am boozing. Re-born in 1977 in an effort to revitalize downtown, the street was torn up, permanently closed to cars, and repaved with bricks. A thousand businesses and flowers line the Mall in historic buildings. 85% of them are local, and with public art, sculptures, and street performers it’s the most popular area of town for restaurants, night life, galleries and coffee. Lots of coffee. I keep a rotation and can’t recommend just one. Ozo, The Cup, Amante, the Trident and the Laughing Goat each have their distinct appeal. For me, sitting here drinking a rich dark coffee is like a vacation, even just after a vacation.
You will have earned your meals doing all that activity, and luckily Boulder can feed the hungriest and the most discerning diner alike. Nationally-renowned chefs preside over a number of the best spots in town with taglines like Farm-to-Table, wind-powered, and organic. Try the creole breakfast at Lucille’s, rooftop margaritas at The Rio, and for deceptively casual dinner, neighbors The Kitchen or Salt. Between April and November, visit the lively Farmer’s Market, located on 13th St, which gets closed to traffic, sandwiched between Central Park and the Dushanbe Tea House.
So, here I am, sipping tea again, in a Dushanbe Tea House, but this time relieved to be doing it in my hometown. This one is nicer than the one in Dushanbe! Completely hand-built by Tajik craftsmen then shipped here, it is a work of art that serves food and drinks. The menu is wonderful and varied, with dishes from Cuba to Persia, North Africa to Thailand. And teas. When you can’t decide your next activity, maybe you’ll have luck reading the leaves.
Mick Follari is a alpinist, rock and ice climber, photographer and videographer. You can find out more about his work here and follow him on Instagram here.
Days in the Life of Professional Ultra Runner Krissy Moehl
Being a professional ultra-distance runner is certainly not the planet’s worst job.
You may not sign advertising contracts worth millions, but you get to do some serious travelling. This is a firsthand account of a trip Krissy Moehl took to Chile to compete in the 63km ultra leg of the Patagonian International Marathon.
I woke up early and did a double take on where I was. Frequent travel often leads to unfamiliar wake up situations. A quick scan of the room and recalling what I did to arrive in that bed usually helps to calm that initial eerily unfamiliar feeling. As I scanned the room, I saw the running clothes I had laid out in my exhausted state the night before, complete with my bib number folded and pinned to my shorts. I smiled a big smile. I was in Patagonia, South America. The mountains I photographed from the airplane window only a few hours ago were now looming in the predawn darkness right outside my window. After 30 hours of travel—including a cancelled flight—from my home in Boulder, Colorado, I was in Torres del Paine National Park, a UNESCO world heritage site and biosphere reserve in southern Chile. This would be the first event of its type in Chile’s most visited park.
VERY BAD GOOD TRIP
I retraced the vaguely familiar path back to the lobby to find the friendly faces of fellow racers. Long hours of travel followed by less than 5 hours sleep had left my head a bit foggy, but with a 63 km run awaiting me in an hour’s time, I had to quickly snap back into reality. The sun was starting to illuminate the Patagonian mountains as the coffee worked its way into my blood stream. I’d only viewed these mountains in photos and now their grand silhouettes made me tip my head back to take in their full shape. It was a reality I was more than happy to wake up in. Though hungry from the long journey, I tried to make smart decisions about how much breakfast to enjoy, knowing that I had to race soon. Coffee first to stimulate the foggy mind, toast with jam for carbs and sugar, a banana because that always seems like a good breakfast item and a few fancy figs just because they looked delicious. The lodge did well to accommodate foreign travellers with strong coffee—a rarity in Chile. The opportunity to race in foreign countries is a special way to experience the terrain and people in the different corners of the world. I have wanted to travel since I was a little girl. At 18, when my mom asked me what I wanted to do, I told her I just wanted to see the world. Her advice? “Just find someone to pay for it.” The path I followed in the ensuing 18 years that eventually led me to Patagonia is a unique one, with luck being in the right place at the right time. I worked for Scott McCoubrey, owner of the Seattle Running Company and race director of an 80-km trail race on Mount Rainier. I also worked with American ultra-running legend Scott Jurek at the onslaught of trail running in Seattle. Committing time to lots of training, racing and travelling while managing my private life and a job was never easy. Tough risky decisions were taken, involving a divorce and leaving a full-time job. But that’s how I managed to give this life as an athlete a fair shot.
The 7:15am call for the bus prompted us to hoist our backpacks onto our hips and head out to the parking lot to wait for the bus in the chilly morning breeze, which seemed to hover around 4°C. Thirty minutes later, a 15-passenger bus arrived to retrieve the nearly frozen group of awaiting runners. We piled in with our backpacks and goose bumpy legs for the short drive. We then had 10 minutes to cover the 20-minute walk to the scenic start line on Lago Grey (Grey Lake) beach. Our point-to-point course started on the beach and followed the dirt road we’d just driven on, turning instead towards the Torres del Paine 63 km away. We stripped down to our running shorts and T-shirts and utilized the short journey to the start as a warm up. We descended the marked walkway onto the rocky beach that opened up to icy waters and glacier views. Huge glacial chunks bopped along in the lake like ice cubes in a fancy blue cocktail drink. No wonder they chose this magnificent beach to kick-off the Patagonian International Marathon. It was soon 8am, and we started running back across the beach, up the marked trail and through the parking lot we had left minutes ago. I was now running in Patagonia!
LOS CINCO CABALLOS BLANCOS
In addition to this 63 km ultra, there was a 44 km, a 22 km and a 10 km race. Each started at the appropriate point and time along our 63 km course so that all 350 runners could reach the finish within a few hours that afternoon. The lead men of my 63 km race took off at what felt like a sprint, maybe to keep warm, maybe to compete. I got a little caught up in both and moved along at a fast pace that allowed me to warm my icy legs and stop the shivers. I soon settled into a slower pace that felt more manageable for the long miles ahead. It is no secret that I am not a fan of running on roads; my body just doesn’t manage the repetitive nature. I prefer to bounce around, change direction, climb and descend. But if I am going to run on the roads, I decided I want to run on the roads…in Patagonia! With my camera in the van, the many stunning images were burned into my memory and have often reappeared in my dreams since. Travelling opens the mind to adventure and different realities, pulling the explorer out of his routine to understand that there is more than his own little world and little life. Each time I exit a plane in a new land, I am reminded of how lucky I am to witness a new place with my own eyes, to shake new hands and lace up my shoes to cover miles over new terrain, sometimes where no one has ever run before. Each place offers its special taste, vibe and awakening of the senses. Of the many highlights that filled the morning and early afternoon, the most magnificent happened in the first 5 km. On the long road ahead, off to the right, I saw five white horses, or los cinco caballos blancos in Spanish, burst into motion as one. The sun illuminated their manes like a silver lining and the magnificent force of their movement nearly stopped me in my tracks. The surge of rippling muscles joined the runners on the road just ahead and continued up the track. The road curved to the left and then climbed the hill in a switchback, enabling me to admire their smooth stride as they climbed, reached the top and moved out of sight. A few minutes later when I finally reached the top, los cinco were on my left in a golden field. I kept my head turned to watch them instead of the road ahead until it was too much for my neck. I continued to glance back and soon saw them surge into motion again, this time through the field and further away. Absolutely magical… what a way to start!
RUNNING CAN BE MEDITATIVE
The snowcapped peaks rose up in front of me at every turn as the gravel road twisted, turned and rolled along as dictated by the terrain. The rhythm of the repetitive turns was meditative, allowing thoughts to come, be processed and forgotten. This state of mind is one of the many wonderful gifts of running. I made it my goal to run every step knowing that the climbs were relatively gradual. Running vs. walking would help me cover the 40 miles a bit quicker and hopefully keep me in position for a win. With only water and fruit provided along the way I was thankful for the energy gels and bars I had stuffed into the pockets of a new tester pair of Patagonia shorts. I carried a single UltrAspire isomeric pocket handheld water bottle for easy refilling and hydration along the way. The combination was just enough for the hours spent traversing the 63 km of the race.
Earlier that morning, during my race, I had passed through the starting points of the marathon and half marathon a few minutes before these races began. Running through each starting area brought a surge of energy from the cheers by the runners as they jogged around and stripped down to their own racing attire. Soon after I passed through, the lead men of each of those races passed me in beautiful form. The leader of the marathon slowed his pace to chat with me a bit and I soon realized that we knew each other from prior email communications. And off he went to win the marathon. The lead men of the half surged past me in a group of three, as quiet and efficient as can be.
In the final miles I started weaving through a variety of runners, some that had passed me before, some that started the 10 k before I had reached their start. All brought energy to the experience. After the final rise, the view of Hotel de los Torres was a welcome sight to all of us. The grand archway of the finish was apparent even with a kilometer to go. I tried to quicken my pace in spite of my tight, limited hamstrings. Running 63 km after 30 hours of sitting in planes and cars does little for my flexibility. Covering these final strides, along with the realization that this was my final race for the season, brought a smile to my face. As much as I love racing and travelling, I also thrive in being at home, finding routine, cooking meals and sleeping in my own bed. After a full 18 months of travelling and racing, I was looking forward to a bit of downtime and having time for other passions like cooking, yoga, reading, climbing, kickboxing and sewing. But before letting my mind wander too much I snapped back to the hay bales that lined the finish line and hi-fived the spectators alongside who looked at my bib number to realize that I was finishing the 63 k. “La primera mujer!” they exclaimed. “The first woman!”
The celebrations were grand. That afternoon after a hearty barbecue lunch, the organization put on a show complete with corking the champagne for all age groups and overall winners. The women I stood with all agreed to not spray each other and instead aimed at the awaiting crowd. Stiff and sore we found our way to dinner and bed without much hesitation. The next morning marked the second portion of our Chilean adventure: a difficult and scenic trek.
TRAVEL, RACE, WIN, TRAIN, REPEAT
Some people thought we were crazy. We finished the 63 k and after one night’s sleep—my first full night since leaving Colorado—our small group started a 3-day hike on the “W” route, which most people completed over a week, or more! To me, this knowledge of my physical ability is empowering. When you know that no matter what, those pistons and engine can carry you wherever you want to go… that is a kind of power few know and cherish. It is not something that ultra-runners take for granted as we know it is something we develop and train for.
The way the landscape unfolded before us was completely unexpected. We started on the southeast “corner” of the W and headed west along the bottom of the W, planning to cap off our adventure with the final east arm of the W when we returned. From the start we marveled at the way the lakes met the mountains and the latter screamed up to the sky without hesitation. We had no idea that terrain could be so stunning every step of the way. I have seen many gorgeous places in the world, but I heard myself repeat, “This is the most beautiful place ever.” I loved that everyone we met on the remote and amazing trail had to arrive by foot and therefore on their own leg power. This created a sense of unity that transcended the barriers of language. We were all in the same place on the same power—our own. My hiking buddy and friend of many years, Yassine Diboun (placed 4th male in the 63 km race) and I carried a continuous conversation during the entire hike, constantly interrupted by the beauty around us: “Can you believe this?” Or “Wait, did you see that?” Each time we picked up from where we had left, sharing stories, pondering issues, recounting race stories and—like only good friends can do—getting to know each other better while enjoying this new discovery of the Chilean trails.
THERE IS NO PERFECT WAY TO ARRIVE SOMEWHERE NEW
Every race and travel experience gives me opportunities to open my mind and to learn something. It might be a lesson that I needed to be reminded of, it might be a new one, but there always is at least one. One that I have had to learn over the years is that there is no perfect way to prepare for any event. Planes might be delayed, people might change their minds and you might cook your favorite meal… or not. We can only influence our approach, execution and attitude. The arrival in Patagonia was a challenging experience. My first flight was cancelled and I was delayed a full 24 hours. I arrived at the race start at midnight, before a 5am wakeup call, and managed only a piece of cheesy pizza at the airport bar before the four hour drive into the park. But persistence and optimism led me to an experience of a lifetime. To see the mountains I’ve only heard stories about, to experience the international race at the furthest southern point I’ve ever travelled to and to spend the extra days hiking the “W” and viewing the mountains up close, was the perfect way to wrap up a long season of racing and travelling. It is an experience I know I will not be able to repeat, nor do I want to with the crazy travels involved to get there, but Chile is a place that I want to revisit to hopefully explore deeper in the mountains, perhaps to climb and definitely to complete the “O” route. Maintaining a positive attitude and keeping the end goal in mind are the two things that drive me through life. It worked on this trip and has mostly guided me through my time on this planet.
Through the bumps and twists, highs and lows, I continue to fulfill my dream to see the world. Someone isn’t always picking up the tab, as my mother had advised, but I have found my (running) mode to explore the world.
Feature Image: Runners from North and South America, Africa, Europe, Australia and Asia fly in around the world to participate. Photo by Christian Miranda / Patagonia International Marathon
We love expedition documentaries, but weren’t sure whether to laugh or cry while watching total newbies packraft without knowing how to swim, or put on makeup before hiking the Greater Patagonia Trail… wearing cotton sweatshirts.
“Memory conspires against nature. The forgetting can begin in the instant that a change takes place… if you’re unaware of the animals’ past presence, then their absence will seem perfectly natural, and the question of whales* in the future simply will not occur to you.” J.B. Mackinnon, The Once and Future World: Nature As It Was, As It Is, As It Could Be.