Inveniam viam aut faciam

- Hannibal Barca


Athletes & Explorers

Apr 19, 2019

Alpinists David Lama, Jess Rosskelley, and Hansjörg Auer Presumed Dead on Howse Peak

The world-class mountaineers were climbing Alberta’s Howse Peak on Tuesday, April 16th when a large avalanche carried them to their likely deaths.


Kela Fetters

The mountaineering community mourns the loss of three of its prominent members: 28-year-old Austrian David Lama, 36-year-old American Jess Rosskelley, and 35-year-old Hansjörg Auer. The trio were attempting to summit 3,295-meter Howse Peak by the technical M16 route up its east face on Tuesday, April 16th when they were reportedly ensnared by an avalanche and carried to their deaths.

According to a Parks Canada representative, the father of Jess, John Rosskelley, alerted the Parks Service on Wednesday morning that the party had failed to check-in the previous evening. Banff personnel launched a helicopter search mission that observed avalanche debris containing climbing equipment. In a media release, Parks Canada said that “Based on the assessment of the scene, all three members of the party are presumed to be deceased.” Due to dangerous avalanche conditions and new snow in the forecast, subsequent investigations and body recovery are delayed until an optimal weather window.

Howse Peak above Chepren Lake in summer. Photo by Wikimedia Commons.

The team had notched Mount Andromeda in the previous fortnight. Howse Peak was their next objective on the spring expedition in the Canadian Rockies. The M16 route was first climbed in 2000, and it involves advanced technical mountaineering expertise. Lama, Rosskelley, and Hansjörg were members of The North Face’s Global Athlete Team and highly-regarded alpinists with the experience and skills required of the M16 route.

Hansjörg Auer was regarded as one of the world’s most talented free solo climbers; he climbed a 37-pitch, 5.12c route in the Italian Dolomites called “The Fish” sans ropes or safety gear. He once said, “There is only one person you will have to bear for the rest of your life: yourself. That’s why being alone is so difficult. Even in the mountains, and not just because of safety. Being alone strips you naked, it makes you understand who you are, what is your value, the things that matter in life

Read Next: Hansjörg Auer: No Turning Back

Hansjörd Auer during an attempt of Annapurna III in 2016. Photo by Alexander Blümel via Red Bull Content Pool.

David Lama rose to prominence as a teenager with big wins in lead climbing and bouldering competitions. In 2012, he made the first free ascent of the “Compressor Route” on Cerro Torre in Patagonia. Last year, Lama summited Lunag Ri, which until his feat was Himalaya’s highest unclimbed mountain.

David Lama. climbing in Stubai, Austria in 2018. Photo by Manuel Ferrigato via Red Bull Content Pool.

Spokane, Washington native Jess Rosskelley was the youngest person from North America to summit Mt. Everest when he climbed the mountain with his father in 2003 at age 20. His mountaineering career included first ascents in Alaska and Pakistan. He is survived by his wife, Allison.

Jess Rosskelley in the Hypa Zypa Couloir in 2013. Photo by Kristoffer Szilas via Wikimedia Commons.

The tragedy has not been officially confirmed, but John Rosskelley posted this to a friend’s Facebook page on Thursday regarding his son Jess and his teammates:

“As I write this, I know from speaking with the Park Service and rescue personnel yesterday that Jess, David and Hansjorg are presumed dead. It is with a heavy heart I have to say this, but they were hit by a massive avalanche off Mt. Howse sometime on Tuesday and there was visible evidence they perished. Thank you all for your prayers and thoughts.”

The route that Lama, Rosskelley, and Auer were attempting was first completed by Steve House in 1999. Years later, in 2015, House shared the below Facebook post, referring to one of the “hardest pitches” of his life and asking “#Whositgonnabe”

UPDATE: On Friday, Conrad Anker, who was a good friend to David Lama having climber together for years, tweeted the below message.

The Outdoor Journal will contribute to the prayers and thoughts made to the three young heroes of contemporary alpinism

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Athletes & Explorers

Oct 31, 2019

New World Record: Nirmal Purja Summits the 14 Highest Peaks in Just 6 Months

Nepali ex-soldier Nirmal Purja just smashed the record for summiting all the 8000ers in just half a year—the previous record? The same achievement took Kim Chang-ho, over seven years.



Himraj Soin

Nirmal Purja is a Nepali mountaineer and a former British Marine. He joined the British Army in 2003, became a Royal Marine in 2009, and only started climbing as recently as 2012—when he decided to climb Everest. In 2018, Purja was awarded the MBE, a civilian honour, by Queen of the United Kingdom.

According to his Instagram post on October 29th, Purja or “Nims”, and his team reached the summit of Shisha Pangma at 8:58 AM local time. This was his 14th peak, and his team members were Mingma David Sherpa, Galjen Sherpa and Gesman Tamang.

Previously, South Korean climber Kim Chang-ho was the record holder, completing the summits in seven years, while Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka completed them in a little under eight years.

Purja climbed Annapurna in Nepal on April 23rd, Dhaulagiri in Nepal on May 12th, Kanchenjunga in Nepal on May 15th, Everest in Nepal on May 22nd, Lhotse in Nepal on May 22nd, Makalu in Nepal on May 24th, Nanga Parbat in Pakistan on July 3rd, Gasherbrum 1 in Pakistan on July 15th, Gasherbrum 2 in Pakistan on July 18th, K2 in Pakistan on July 24th, Broad Peak in Pakistan on July 26th, Cho Oyu in China on September 23rd, Manaslu in Nepal on September 27th, and finally Shishapangma in China on October 29th.


View this post on Instagram


United we conquer ! Here is to The A-team 🙌🏼 . .(Climbing team ) @mingma_david_sherpa , @gesmantamang , @geljen_sherpa_ @zekson_srpa ,Halung Dorchi . . . The journey of 14/7 has tested us all the way though at many levels. Together we have been through so much, we climbed not only as a team but as brothers with one sole goal to make the impossible possible pushing the human limitations to next level. Now, the BROTHERHOOD that we share between us is even STRONGER ! . . #trust #brotherhood #team . . 14/14 ✅ #14peaks7months #History . . #nimsdai #BremontProjectPossible ‬ #dedication #resilience #extremehighaltitudemountaineering #uksf #extremeoftheextreme #nolimit #silxo #ospreyeurope #antmiddleton #digi2al #adconstructiongroup #omnirisc #summitoxygen #inmarsat #thrudark #gurkhas #sherpas #elitehimalayanadventures #alwaysalittlehigher

A post shared by Nirmal Purja MBE – Nimsdai (@nimsdai) on

Apparently, he could’ve made better time had it not been for a few hiccups along the way—from being help up for permissions to climb in Tibet, to stretching out his Lhotse, Everest, and Makalu climbs to take a break. During his descent from Annapurna, Purja and his team rescued Malaysian climber Wui Kin Chin, who was not doing well at 7500m. On their descent of Kanchenjunga, Purja and his team gave up their oxygen to three climbers who had run out of their supply. While climbing Everest, he had to wait in line for hours, and ended up taking the viral photograph of the “traffic jam” on Everest.

Today, Nims gave a shout out to his teammates on Instagram, “United we conquer! Here is to The A-team! The journey of 14/7 has tested us all the way though at many levels. Together we have been through so much, we climbed not only as a team but as brothers with one sole goal to make the impossible possible pushing the human limitations to the next level. Now, the BROTHERHOOD that we share between us is even STRONGER!”

Apart from climbing all 14 of the world’s 8000m peaks in under 7 months, and partly due to this enormous feat, he also holds a few other records—most 8000m mountains in the spring season (climbing six), most 8000m mountains in the summer season (climbing five), fastest summit of the three highest mountains in the world—Everest, K2, and Kanchenjunga, fastest summit of the five highest mountains in the world—Everest, K2, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse and Makalu, fastest lower 8000ers, Gasherbrum 1, 2, and Broad Peak, and fastest higher 8000ers, consecutive summits of Everest, Lhotse and Makalu in 48 hours (beats his own previous record of five days).

The backbone of the climbing industry in Nepal, sherpas are often overlooked and don’t get nearly as much international recognition as their comrades from the west. In Purja’s case, as his website mentions, the reason you may not have heard of him before is that he spent the last 16 years serving in the UK military. For more information on Purja, head over to projectimpossible.co.uk.

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