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Boulder

Aug 25, 2018

Legendary Climber Jeff Lowe Dies at 67

American alpinist and climber Jeff Lowe was suffering from an extremely rare progressive neurodegenerative disease for the last 18 years. He has just passed at a health centre in Colorado, surrounded by friends and family.

WRITTEN BY

Himraj Soin

A climbing legend, Jeff Lowe made more than 1000 first ascents all around the world. An American alpinist from Utah, Jeff was the co-founder of outdoor equipment company, Lowe Alpine. He brought modern ice climbing from Europe to the United States and was a huge proponent of the alpine style. In 2017, he won the Piolets D’or Lifetime Achievement Award. In 1991, he famously climbed Metanoia, the hardest route on the Eiger. 

Suffering from a rare Muscle Neuron Degeneration (MND) similar to ALS, it had left him in a wheelchair, breathing bottled oxygen, coughing through a tracheotomy and eating liquid food through a tube. He required 24/7 nursing supervision. 

“Place your confidence in your dreams, not in your nightmares.”

His daughter Sonja Jane posted on his behalf on Facebook: “My father, Jeff Lowe, to put it in his words, “moved on from this material plane to the next” this evening in a peaceful transition.

The last few days were a beautiful whirlwind of laughter, tears, sadness and new friendships. We lived outside the entire time, where my dad always wanted to be, and created our own “base camp” as the wonderful nurses at Lemay Ave Health & Rehabilitation Center lovingly referred to it. We laughed, cried, and honored his life and the many climbs and many lessons he experienced.… and had a 3 day celebratory party, with him as the guest of honor and the one bringing us all together. We all felt this was exactly what Jeff would have wanted, without a question.

The other thing my dad, Jeff, wanted, was to leave behind a legacy for his granddaughter, Valentina, as well as the rest of the world, by sharing his experience on Metanoia not for a profit, but for a purpose-to enlighten others as to what he experienced. To honor his life, achievements, and contributions to both the climbing world and the universe as a whole, and so his beloved granddaughter always remembers him with as much pride as she does today.  Love always and forever, The luckiest daughter in the world.”

In an article for The Outdoor Journal, “Khumbu Possibilities”, Jeff shared an excerpt of his upcoming book, detailing remarkable mountain experiences from his life, contemplating the unknowable possibilities that the unknown holds, in the mountains and elsewhere. His ultimate goal was securing access to the wilderness for current and future generations, while protecting and preserving all wild places. Interviewed by journalist Michael Levy, he told him that even with his disease, he is simply doing another “first ascent”. Michael said of his visit, “On that second day at Jeff’s house, he ruminated on the importance of living in the present, being open to all the outcomes, twists and turns that are unforeseeable until they happen”.

The Outdoor Journal Founder and Editor-in-Chief Apoorva Prasad also met Jeff Lowe just weeks prior to his passing, to give him a copy of the magazine with his article. He reflected on the news saying, “before us came giants, and in this age of internet celebrities, I try to remember my true heroes, legends like Jeff who achieved feats amongst the mountains, that mere mortals like myself can only dream of”.

“When Michael and I met Jeff a few weeks ago, he seemed happy to finally get a copy of the magazine, and was thanking me – I told him that it was I who needed to thank him, that I was truly honored to have been able to publish his story, and was really looking forward to reading the rest of the memoirs.”  The Outdoor Journal team had been working to release a special online version of the article, to help raise funding for Jeff’s ongoing treatment and medical costs.

“Everyday I’m still in the present, still trying to figure it all out … If you can be in the present moment of your life, you can deal with anything that comes your way,” Jeff said. 

 

 

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Athletes & Explorers

Aug 26, 2018

Tom Frost, One of Yosemite’s Golden Age Icons, Dies at 81.

The American climber went down in history as a visionary in big wall first ascents

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WRITTEN BY

Brooke Hess

On August 24th, 2018, American climbing legend, Tom Frost, passed away. He suffered from a long battle with cancer and eventually lost the fight at the age of 81. He died at a hospice center near his home in Oakdale, California.

“Tom is such a symbol of everything that is good in climbing”

Frost was born in Hollywood, California in 1937. He first visited Yosemite in 1958, and soon became one of the icons of the Golden Age of Yosemite big wall climbing. Along with his climbing partners Royal Robbins, Chuck Pratt, Joe Fitschen, and Yvon Chouinard, Frost made multiple first ascents in Yosemite. His first ascent of the Salathé Wall on El Capitan marked a historical achievement in big wall climbing, and inspired many of today’s top climbers to seek out their own first ascents. “Tom is my biggest hero from that era for sure” says big wall climber Tommy Caldwell, who did the first ascent of the highly famed Dawn Wall in Yosemite. “Tom is such a symbol of everything that is good in climbing… I think everybody looks at Tom and thinks, that is kind of the height of what you should try to achieve to be like.”

Tom Frost. Headwall Roof. Photo: Royal Robbins

“I definitely find that approach to life really inspiring.”

In addition to his numerous ascents in Yosemite, Frost also made historic first ascents in the Tetons, the Himalayas, and the Cirque of the Unclimbables in the Northwest Territories. According to Alex Honnold, Tom’s passion for climbing and life in general was nothing short of inspiring. “I definitely looked at the Golden Age of climbers and see how successful they were in life in general.  They took their climbing and then they applied that same philosophy to life it seems like. They really just like grabbed on and lived it to the fullest. They really went for it. I definitely find that approach to life really inspiring.”

The entire team at The Outdoor Journal would like to send our condolences to the family and friends of Tom Frost.

“Tom is a legend, a great man, and a great person.” -Cedar Wright

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