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Athletes

Sep 18, 2017

Anak Verhoeven Becomes First Woman to Establish a 9a+

Anak Verhoeven has made history by suggesting the difficult grade of 9a+ for her new route Sweet Neuf in the South of France.

WRITTEN BY

Michael Levy

Only one other woman has ever climbed the grade, and none have ever opened a route so hard.

On September 11, 2017, a year that has already seen the first ever confirmed 9a+ (5.15a) female ascent; the first free solo of El Capitan; and the first ever 9c (5.15d), once again crossed into “never before” territory. Anak Verhoeven, a 21-year-old Belgian climber, became the first woman ever to make the first ascent of a 9a+ when she clipped the chains of Sweet Neuf, a 40 meter limestone climb at Pierrot Beach in the Vercors Mountains, in the South of France.

What is new about Verhoeven’s ascent is that she is the first; the trailblazer; the one to deem the route possible. In February, the American Margo Hayes climbed La Rambla in Siurana, Spain, the first repeat of a consensus 9a+ route. (Previously, Ashima Shirashi sent Open Your Mind Direct (9a/+) in 2013,  and Josune Bereziartu sent Bimbaluna in St. Loup, Switzerland, both 9a/+ (5.14d/5.15a).  If further repeats puts consensus at 5.15a, either of those women may in the future lay claim to the first female 5.15a).

Verhoeven’s Sweet Neuf is a link-up between a 15-meter 9a called Sang Neuf, and the final 25-meters of an adjacent 8c/+ (5.14b/c), Home Sweet Home. She told The Outdoor Journal about Sang Neuf, “I tried it last year for about three days, but had to leave because the weather was so bad.

Verhoeven on the first ascent of Sweet Neuf (9a+). Photo: Sébastien Richard.

So I came back this year,” she continued. She put the bouldery 9a to rest in just two days. “In between the second and the third quickdraw there’s one move that was quite hard and a long reach for me,” Verhoeven said. “But the real crux is just before the chains [of Sang Neuf]. It’s a bouldery move where you need a lot of body tension.”

After sending Sang Neuf so quickly, she went project shopping, only to end up in the same place. Sébastien Richard, one of Verhoeven’s climbing partners, suggested the Sang Neuf-Home Sweet Home link-up. It was an extant project that had vexed several local would-be ascentionists.

Instead of stopping at the chains of Sang Neuf after completing that route’s bouldery crux, Verhoeven would climb directly into the final 25 meters of Home Sweet Home above. “That part is mostly about endurance and what makes the whole thing 9a+,” she said. Though this part of the route has some chipped holds, Verhoeven still said, “The climbing is really nice. Some two- and three-finger pockets, some crimps, some long moves that are pretty reachy.”

After rehearsing this new terrain, she sent the new link-up on her first proper redpoint burn, dubbed it Sweet Neuf, and proffered the 9a+ grade.

Verhoeven reasoned that, since previous senders and the guidebook concurred on Sang Neuf’s 9a grade, stacking the end of an 8c/+ atop itand with only meager rests, to bootconstituted a step up in difficulty. “Even if Sang Neuf is only an easy 9a,” she said, “the next 25 meters make it definitely harder. If the first part is 9a, the whole thing has to be 9a+. I talked about it with other climbers who were there, and they thought it was 9a+.”

Sweet Neuf climbs 40 meters of overhanging limestone at Pierrot Beach, France. Photo: Sébastien Richard.

Before Sweet Neuf, Verhoeven had already climbed 26 climbs 8b+ or harder.  Aside from Sang Neuf, her other sends of the 9th grade were Era Vella (9a), in Margalef, Spain;  La Reina Mora (8c+/9a), in Siurana, Spain; and Broadway (8c+/9a), also in Siurana.

Though her outdoor climbing achievements are outstanding, Verhoeven is best known for her dominance in competition climbing. In 2016, she competed in all seven IFSC Lead World Cup events of the season, winning at Kranj, Slovenia and Arco, Italy, and placing second at Xiamen, China; Villars, Switzerland; and Chamonix, France. She also won silver at the 2016 IFSC World Championship in Lead, and in 2017 won gold in lead at the European Championship.

For the rest of 2017, Verhoeven said she will mainly focus on training for competitions. But she may just have another (already established) 9a+ in her sights. She said, “I’d love to try Biographiealso known as Realization, and the world’s first confirmed 9a+, established by American climber Chris Sharma.

And who knows? With 9a+ going down so quickly for Verhoeven, the first female 9b could be just around the corner….

Climbing 9a+ takes practice, practice, practice. Work on your climbing skill with trips from The Outdoor Voyage!

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Events

Jul 10, 2018

The 2018 Whitewater Awards: Nouria Newman and Benny Marr take the spoils.

The Whitewater Awards is a gathering of the world’s best kayakers to show off the biggest and best things that have happened in the sport over the past year.

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WRITTEN BY

Brooke Hess

 To be considered for an award, athletes, photographers, and filmmakers submit media taken over the past year that they believe showcases the best progression in the sport.  

There are sixteen different categories for submission, including separate male and female categories within the “Best of” kayaking categories. Categories include Photographer of the Year, Film of the Year, Expedition of the Year, Best Trick, Best Line, River Stewardship, Grom of the Year, Rider of the Year, along with several others.  Awards are decided upon by a voting process done by the Association of Whitewater Professionals.

This year’s Whitewater Awards was held in the Egyptian Theater in downtown Boise, Idaho. It was hosted on June 14th, the same weekend as the North Fork Championships, which takes place on the North Fork of the Payette River just outside of Boise.  The North Fork Championship is regarded as one of the hardest kayaking races in the world.

The race takes place on Jacob’s Ladder rapid, which is a rapid so difficult and consequential that most kayakers feel accomplished simply by surviving the rapid, much less racing the rapid. Nouria Newman, a 3-time NFC racer and winner of this year’s Whitewater Awards Female Rider of the Year describes it well,

“The NFC is the hardest race in whitewater kayaking. [Jacob’s Ladder] is a scary, consequential rapid. Running it is challenging, and it only gets harder to race it and make the gates.”

In order to minimize the risk involved in the race, event organizers have developed a strict qualification process for racers. 30 racers will qualify to race Jacob’s Ladder. Ten of them are pre-qualified from placing top ten at the event the year before. Those ten then read numerous athlete applications and vote on the next ten racers who will join them.  The last ten racers are decided through a qualification race on S-Turn rapid, another one of the North Fork’s infamous class V rapids.

Every year on this same weekend in June, kayakers, photographers, and filmmakers from around the world flock to Idaho to celebrate quality whitewater, progression of the sport, and the community that surrounds it. Both the North Fork Championship and the Whitewater Awards had great turnouts of athletes and spectators this year.

John Webster

The finalists of each category in the Whitewater Awards were presented in film format at the Egyptian Theater for the entire audience to view, with the winner being announced live. Winners were presented with an award and expected to give a short speech at the event. The big winners of the night were Nouria Newman and Benny Marr, who were awarded with Line of the Year and Rider of the Year in the female and male categories. Nouria says that voting for the “best” in each category is a challenging process, “…voting is always tricky, (look at both French and U.S. presidents, not too sure if they are really the best available option). And it is also very hard to compare lines and rapids. What’s bigger? What’s harder? I got voted Best Line of the Year with a good line down Parque Jurassic, a long technical rapid, but Rata’s line down Graceland, which is a huge slide, was equally as good, if not better.”

No matter how tricky the voting process can be, Nouria agrees that the Whitewater Awards plays a large role in the progression of the sport, “I think it’s super cool to see what people can do in their kayak, how they push the limit of the sport and how they open new possibilities.”

For more information about the Whitewater Awards, you can visit whitewaterawards.com, you can also follow them on Facebook and on Instagram.

You can follow Nouria on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter.

You can follow Benny on Facebook and Instagram.

Cover photo courtesy of Ari Walker

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